Despite the warnings, foreign visitors are starting to return, and "war tours" are gaining popularity. These package tours, which include guided excursions to areas liberated from Russian occupation and war crimes sites, can cost more than £3,000 per week. Tour guides have designed emotional routes through Kiev suburbs such as Bucha, where detailed stories of the Russian occupation are told. Fees for these tours start at $120, with half the proceeds going to the Ukrainian military.

However, not all residents are happy with the influx of tourists interested in the conflict. Some locals are reluctant to allow tour guides to profit from devastated areas, and signs have appeared on ruined houses warning visitors not to enter or take photographs. For many locals, the idea of people profiting from their community's tragedy is deeply disturbing, especially when that money could help rebuild places like Bucha.

Despite the controversy surrounding war tourism, it is not the only attraction for visitors. In cities of relative safety, local authorities are beginning to welcome tourists back. In Lviv, for example, the information center has adapted its services to offer details on local attractions and safety tips. Visitor numbers in this city are up 37% compared to the previous year.

This renewed interest in Ukrainian tourism underscores a complex mix of resilience and controversy. While some see the return of tourists as a positive sign of recovery and economic support, others fear that tourism's exploitation of the tragedy could tarnish reconstruction efforts and respect for the lived experiences of those who have been affected by the conflict.