Ukraine tourism: Recovery amidst conflict

11-08-24

Despite the ongoing conflict, tourism in Ukraine is starting to recover. According to recent reports, the country's tourism industry has generated more taxes in the first half of 2024 than in the pre-war year of 2021. However, this resurgence is not without controversy, as "war tourism" and the "commercialization of tragedy" have raised concerns among locals.

Mariana Oleskiv, chairwoman of Ukraine's State Agency for Tourism Development, has pointed out that although a significant part of the country is still occupied, about 70% of its territory is in safe condition and remains "very beautiful." This message seeks to change the international perception that associates Ukraine solely with war and destruction.

Domestic tourism continues, with Ukrainians traveling from less safe areas to quieter destinations. Cities in the southwest, such as Chernivtsi, and the Carpathian Mountains are seeing an increase in the number of domestic tourists. However, the situation is different for international visitors. Oleskiv has made it clear that Ukraine is not inviting foreign tourists at this time due to logistical complexity and lack of insurance coverage.

Despite the warnings, foreign visitors are starting to return, and "war tours" are gaining popularity. These package tours, which include guided excursions to areas liberated from Russian occupation and war crimes sites, can cost more than £3,000 per week. Tour guides have designed emotional routes through Kiev suburbs such as Bucha, where detailed stories of the Russian occupation are told. Fees for these tours start at $120, with half the proceeds going to the Ukrainian military.

However, not all residents are happy with the influx of tourists interested in the conflict. Some locals are reluctant to allow tour guides to profit from devastated areas, and signs have appeared on ruined houses warning visitors not to enter or take photographs. For many locals, the idea of people profiting from their community's tragedy is deeply disturbing, especially when that money could help rebuild places like Bucha.

Despite the controversy surrounding war tourism, it is not the only attraction for visitors. In cities of relative safety, local authorities are beginning to welcome tourists back. In Lviv, for example, the information center has adapted its services to offer details on local attractions and safety tips. Visitor numbers in this city are up 37% compared to the previous year.

This renewed interest in Ukrainian tourism underscores a complex mix of resilience and controversy. While some see the return of tourists as a positive sign of recovery and economic support, others fear that tourism's exploitation of the tragedy could tarnish reconstruction efforts and respect for the lived experiences of those who have been affected by the conflict.

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